Thanks Richard and Badger (I like mystery). I'll try as you suggested, Richard. I mostly shift lakes or planes around, but this time it was 'out of the box'.
I had some trouble again yesterday, when a few hours render (I wondered why it went so slow on an i7) turned out completely black. It started rendering terrain (I could see), but then replace the image by black. Very strange. But I found it; some nodes I had inadvertently linked wrongly (a blender PF string also in the main input of the wave PF). And then it went fast; detail 0.7 AA 8, fills instead of GI, 25 minutes. Still not satisfied, a lot to do, but I'm getting there. I want deeper shadows under the beached boat, for instance, so I started by giving the fills shadows for the next iteration. And the warp in the side streams is too fine (color roughness too high in the warper PF feeding into the vector displacement).